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09/19/2003
Modern-day
adventurers use "canoe in the sky" to trace path Lewis and
Clark followed years ago
By John Sonderegger
My first thought when I heard about this crew from Chattanooga,
Tenn., following the Lewis and Clark expedition trail in a small
aircraft was simply: Why?
Then again, why did re-enactors
begin a journey in Pittsburgh this year? But that's another story.
The real taking off point
for this historic expedition was St. Charles, where William Clark
and Meriwether Lewis hooked up in the spring of 1804 to begin fulfilling
the request of President Thomas Jefferson to explore the Missouri
River and its tributaries to the Pacific Ocean.
Exploring the unknown
and fighting the elements of the river and the weather and risking
their lives on this expedition are the stuff dreams are made of
- that's why so many of us are fascinated with Lewis and Clark.
But what purpose
was served by chasing the Lewis and Clark dream in a small aircraft
called Cloud Chaser, which skimmed treetops and was like "a
canoe in the sky?" I'll let Ron Lowery, 59, a commercial photographer
and airplane pilot, tell his story.
He was in St. Charles a couple of weeks ago, returning from his
journey that began June 12. Lowery says he bought a kit airplane
in 1997 that had been developed for National Geographic magazine
to explore and shoot photographs over Zaire in Africa. With the
help of his son, Lowery put the twin-engine aircraft together and
began making plans for his aerial tour of the Lewis and Clark route.
Along with writer Mary Walker, also a pilot, and a ground crew that
consisted of two RVs, his wife, Sue, son Ryan, 19, and their dog,
Jack, the group left here in mid-June and returned on Sept. 4.
Lowery said their purpose
was "to capture the essence of the Lewis and Clark expedition
from an angle never seen before, from the air."
You can check out Lowery's
photos and read some of their journals online at www.chasinglewisandclark.com.
They plan to have a book
ready by March called "Chasing Lewis and Clark Across America."
The cover photo will show Lowery's plane following the river from
above. They had to rent another aircraft to get that photo.
Walker will write the
text and Lowery will supply the photos in what should be a fascinating
tale of their trip, which logged 13,000 miles. They explored many
areas several times, looking for the best photo possible. For example,
if they found some mountains in the afternoon that begged to have
a sunrise photo shoot, they'd put the aircraft down at a small airport
or on a rancher's grass landing strip, and the ground crew would
rendezvous with them for the evening. Lowery said they were self-contained
with their own generators and could land just about anywhere for
an evening's stay.
They'd get up before
dawn and fly to the spot to shoot the perfect photo. The photos
they have online are breathtaking images of the river and landscapes.
Lowery said he researched
the trip for 2 1/2 years before they embarked on it in June. He
is most proud of his photos from the Missouri Breaks area in Montana.
"The idea was to do some serious art, not snapshots,"
he said. "We had wide-angle lenses and we went for the design
element of the scenery."
They had hundreds of
landings and takeoffs in their little open-cockpit airplane, and
they had their tense moments. For example, they were enjoying themselves
in the cowboy town of Miles City, Mont., one night when a storm
started brewing. They raced to the airport to tie down and hold
the "Cloud Chaser" in the face of a 45 mph wind.
Flying close to mountaintops
and then down in the canyon of the Yellowstone River also proved
harrowing. "When you're flying over a 1,200-foot mountain and
then down into the canyon where the river is, your major concern
is wind sheer," Lowery said. "Then there was no rain for
two months in some areas, and we had to avoid the forest fires in
Montana. We'd see lightning off in the distance, and then we'd see
smoke come up. The rain would fall, but it would evaporate before
it hit the ground because there was only 15 percent humidity,"
so there was nothing to put out the fires started by lightning.
Along the way, they met
many interesting folks on the ground. Their journals had a couple
of entries about the St. Louis and St. Charles areas.
At the beginning of their
journey, they wrote:
"As part of our
takeoff clearance at Cahokia Airport (actually Parks) near St. Louis,
the air traffic controller says, 'Maintain visual separation from
the Arch.' It's the only place in the world where you'll hear that
instruction. The beautiful Gateway Arch looks like it's meant to
be flown through with a small airplane, and it could be done if
a pilot wanted to lose his or her license."
And:
"We
found Lewis and Clark enactors camping overnight with circa 1800
gear, at St. Charles, where Lewis and Clark set off for their 8,000-mile
journey in May 2004. Several hundred people from around the region
have been obsessed enough with history to build a full-scale, river-worthy
keelboat and two pirogues, replicas of the expedition's fleet."
The Tennessee crew made
entries in journals at almost every stop along the way. Lowery said
they even met the great-grandson of Chief Sitting Bull.
He said 60 percent of
the book will deal with flying the homemade aircraft, a double-shaded
green airplane that is powered by a pair of 100-horsepower Rotax
912 engines. It weighs just over 1,000 pounds, and it can take off
in about 150 feet. It can fly at speeds of up to 75 mph and climb
at a rate of 1,800 feet per minute.
Lowery said he felt "in
touch with the landscape, the air, the sounds, the sights, the smell.
You can smell the mud in the river."
To be sure,
Lowery and his crew saw it all from a different angle, and they
captured it with some sensational photography.
Columnist John Sonderegger
E-mail: jsonderegger@post-dispatch.com
Phone: 636-255-7207
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